The ghosts of Kigali

We went and explored the sites of Kigali this weekend.  Big city- but very clean.  There are people (mostly women) sweeping the streets and weeding the gardens and grass along the streets.  I also suspect that some of the reason why Rwanda is so clean is the ban on plastic shopping bags in the country.  You bring your own reusable bags or get a paper bag at the store.

I was mostly in the down town area of Kigali this weekend exploring and trying to get a handle on where things are.  Buses, motos, taxi vans and taxis are everywhere.  Moto- motor bikes that you ride on the back behind the driver.  Helmets are provided, but you most  say 'buhoro' (slow) -if you get a driver that wants to race through the streets.  It's kind of like riding a really fast bike through heavy traffic- that you are not in control of.... Very strange feeling- I found I was still looking for the erratic drivers, the pot holes, the door prizes etc, but I was not driving... just holding on.

It was also very interesting trying the find stores, catch buses and buy items with very poor Kinyarwanda.  I know some basic greetings, some numbers and some food names... but apart from that I'm pretty useless.  Most people know a smattering of French or English or both so we got by pretty well.

pili pili- hot sauce that comes in a eye dropper

Since we have been in Rwanda we have also had the opportunity to visit the Kigali Genocide Memorial.  This is a very moving memorial/museum about the genocide and also about other genocides that have happened in other countries.  Very visceral, strong, moving exhibition. 

Having read many books and accounts of what happened in Rwanda during the genocide I thought there would be constant reminders in the streets of Kigali.  However, I found that apart from some bullet holes in the parliment building, and the presence of military men in the streets with big guns- the streets are full of life, of young people, of trees and gardens.  The air is full of renewal and regrowth. 

However, that does not mean that the struggle for reconciliation, for peace, for forgiveness does not live on in people's hearts.  I am told that during April, which is the national remembrance and commemoration month, it's like ghosts are passing through the country.

Some scars are physical, some are emotional, some are spiritual.  The absence of a brother, a sisters, a mother, a father are holes that may never be healed.  Some scars are healed and filled with genuine peace against all odds. 

I am looking forward to being a part of a community 'where tears are dried' (Agahozo) and peace (Shalom) is made.